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Our matching paint specialist has more than 35 years of experience in the field. Yes. We can match over 95 percent of all colors on the market. We use OEM formulations supplied by the top paint manufacturers to match the color code. All paint is mixed to the exact formulation at the time of order...

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It's silky smooth, lays down almost as thin as a rage extreme, doesn't pinhole,can be used as glazing putty, and sands the best out of any filler...

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Automotive sandpaper comes in a variety of different shapes, sizes and grits to be used for specific applications in the refinishing process...

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You may know how to paint, but not necessarily how to paint wood. This is because most homeowners are well-accustomed to paint-ready surfaces like wallboard, but find--much to their surprise--that painting wood is an entirely different matter. 

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How to paint wood?

You may know how to paint, but not necessarily how to paint wood. This is because most homeowners are well-accustomed to paint-ready surfaces like wallboard, but find--much to their surprise--that painting wood is an entirely different matter.

- Raw or Not? Is the wood is raw and unfinished?

- Covering Up-   If the wood has been stained or treated, or if it is already painted, then other measures need be taken. Before you get started, you'll want to be sure you have covered up the floor with newspapers, rosin paper, cardboard, plastic, or a nifty thing much like kraft paper called contractor's paper. You should also be wearing clothes you don't mind getting dirty.

- VentilationBe sure you're in a well-ventilated area. If you are working in a garage, use only water-based products. The volatile fumes from some primers and paints can pose a threat with the pilot light from your heater or hot water heater. If you must paint in the garage, take precautions by using non-flammable products as you continue.

If the Wood is Stained or Painted

If the wood you are about to paint is already stained and finished, meaning there is a clear coat of urethane or lacquer or some undisclosed finish on it, then the first step is to wash the surface with a product called TSP, which stands for Tri-Sodium Phosphate.

There are no-rinse varieties of TSP, so you might decide to use this type. The idea is that paint needs a physical or mechanical adhesion. In other words, the best way for paint to bond to the wood is to bond with the wood grain. In the case of a pre-finished surface, it impossible to bond with the wood grain.

Even worse, a pre-finished piece of wood may have other impurities on top of the finish. There will be dirt from years of use, grease from hands, or food caked on the surface, between your paint and the wood surface.

1. Sanding the Wood

After the TSP has dried and is either rinsed off or not according to instructions, the next step is to sand. Important: If your wood did not have stain or a finish on it, this is the first step in painting wood.

Do not wash down raw wood.

Even if the wood was purchased factory-direct, don't think that the wood is ready to paint; it still needs a fine sanding.

  • Get the Right Sander -
  • Start Sanding - Begin sanding with at least a fine grit of 150, though beginning with a 180 or 200 is even better. The point in sanding is not to mechanically strip the wood of the stain, but rather to simply provide the paint with something to grab. Stripping finishes--as opposed to stripping paint--is a process used only if you want to re-stain the wood, in which case stripping and bleaching will be needed.
  • Clean Wood - After sanding, thoroughly remove dust from the surface. A great way to do that is with a Shop Vac. Don't use a blower: that will only redistribute the dust back on the surface. Another great method is to use tack cloth or to wet a cloth rag with rubbing alcohol and go over the surface.


2. Priming the Wood

Why You Prime

Priming the wood prior to painting is not just an important step: this separates the professional grade paint job from amateurs. Primer is chemically formulated to bond to problem surfaces, and to give paint an even surface to bond to. It helps avoid problems such as flashing--where parts of the final paint job will look as if they were different sheens of paint. For instance, one area will look glossy, another flat, and altogether will look amateurish. Mix the primer well, and apply like you would a paint: brush, roll or spray on.

Type of Primer to Use

Depending on your final color choice, your paint manufacturer may have a particular primer base coat in mind. A properly chosen primer can really help you get your paint job done with using less paint.

Another tip to save time: have your primer tinted toward your finish color (if permitted by manufacturer's instructions). Make sure that the tinted primer is not an exact match for your eventual paint color; you just want it tinted in that direction. The reason for this is that, during the process of painting, you actually need to tell the difference between your final color and the dried primer. 


4. Paint the Wood

Choose the Paint

Be sure that you choose the right paint for the job. Don't use an exterior grade paint indoors or vice versa, and don't use flat paint unless you don't care how dirty a thing looks after a while. At least go with an eggshell or satin, if not semi-gloss or gloss. There are new washable flats on the market that are preferable to the traditional flats. 

Painting Tools

Purchase a quality brush the kind that will paint latex or oil, or a similar brand. Beware of generic brands, as they may shed their bristles all over your wet paint.

Get a 1.5-gallon bucket with a roller screen. Again, make sure the roller pad or roller cover you get won't shed, especially if you're using a higher gloss paint.

Paint the Wood

Get your roller arm damp by rolling it down onto the surface of the paint--don't submerge it--and then roll it out onto the screen in the bucket.

Spread the paint on the wood by using a "W" pattern, then quickly take your brush--with the tips only dipped in paint--and paint along the direction of the grain. The trick is speed, and not to re-work what you've painted once it's begun to dry.

Avoid Tackiness

If you have a hard time with the paint being tacky or wanting to drag your brush, then you can either pick up the pace or buy a product that extends open time. You also want to be sure you're not painting underneath a fan or heater vent, or in open sunlight or wind. These can all contribute to faster tackiness.

Find the Right sanding paper

Automotive sandpaper comes in a variety of different shapes, sizes and grits to be used for specific applications in the refinishing process. Actually Automotive grade sandpaper is completely different then what you might be use to in wood working. Wood workers or general purpose sand paper may actually be made of sand particles that are roughly graded into course medium and fine ratings. The abrasive particles on automotive sandpaper actually highly graded oxides to allow the auto body technician to depend on a contestant grade of abrasive.

Automotive Sandpaper can come in a variety of coarseness from about 40 grit which is the most abrasive up to 5,000 grit which is not much more abrasive then a regular sheet of paper in your computer printer. Each piece is exactly the same as the last that way if you are sanding down an imperfection in the clear coat you can grab a 3000 grit paper and know you won’t be cutting through the clear into the base coat.

So what are the different grades and types and when do you use them?

Starting with the most abrasive and working our way up to the fine grades.

40 Grit or anything below 100 grit is used to remove paint, rough sand and shape body filler and fiberglass, remove heavy rust or level out welds.

100 to 200 Grit is used to prepare metal with a rough surface so body filler will stick to it, detail sand the body filler and remove paint.

200 to 300 Grit is used to prepare the car for primer, finish sand body fillers and level out paint chips.

300 to 600 Grit can be used for finish sanding but is mainly used to prepare the Primer for the main Base Coat of paint.

600 to 1000 Grit is used to sand the base coat, remove large paint runs, dirt in the base/top coat or imperfections.

Above 1000 Grit is used to level the clear coat and remove orange peal this is the final process before buffing and may be skipped in some cases.

Rough sand with 100 or below to remove paint and shape the body filler. Once the shape is correct finish sand for primer using a 200 grit paper and once the primer has dried use a 400 grit sandpaper to prepair it for the top coats of paint.

Tint alcohol Red

Wood honey tint